![]() ![]() You want a thick paste so add the water a little at a time while you mix it with gloved fingers, breaking up and combining any lumps. Measure out about four (4) ounces of borax and four (4) ounces of alum powder. When you're done, remove the pelt from the board and rinse the pelt thoroughly. This helps to break down the fibers and is the first start in softening the pelt. Once again pin it to the board, and now, scrape it carefully with a dull knife. Take the pelt out of the solution and carefully sgueeze the excess solution from the hide. Gently knead the pelt in the solution and leave it to soak for 24 hours. Put five (5) ounces of borax (20 Mule Team works great!) and stir until it disolves.Put on your gloves, and put the pelt into the borax laced mixture. Rinse out your pail and refill it with tepid water. When you are done, fold the pelt skin to skin, and set it to one side for a moment. It may appear as a shiny film of membrane that is still attached to the skin. Be on the lookout for any remaining tissue that is still attached. Change the dirty water about every thirty minutes or so until the pelt is as soft as it was when you first started, then wait 30 more minutes!Ĭarefully squeeze as much water out of the now softened pelt as you can. use your board and pushpins and tack the pelt, furside down, to the board. Carefully scrape the inside of the skin again with your sharp knife. place the pelt in the water, assuring that it is completely submerged. The pelt must absorb the salt, and the moisture in the flesh must be removed slowly and completely. Never hang a pelt where the sun can hit it. Take the wet salted pelt, and carefully hang it up to dry in a breezy shady place. Lay it back down fur side down, and spread a thin layer of salt on the fleash side of the pelt. once again, salt the pelt and work the salt into it. Place your pelt on some newspaper, rinse and dry the pan, and set the pelt back down. Set it aside for 60 to 72 hours.Īfter it has sat, liquid may have collected in the pan, and much of the salt may have liquified. Rub it in well, and when you are sure you have covered evry bit of it, lay the pelt back, fur side down in the pan, and sprinkle a thin layer of salt onto the pelt. Put on your gloves, take the Kosher salt, and put a good coat of it on the skin. Remove the pins from the pelt and put it in the rubbermaid pan flesh side up. ![]() Be careful that you don't cut through the pelt, though undoubtedly you will the first couple of times until you get the hang of it. You want to remove any fat or muscle tissue that remains. Using the sharp knife, scrape away as much tissue as possible. Pin down the pelt, fur side to the board, with the thumbtacks. ![]() In furrier parlance this is called fleshing.Find yourself a comfortable spot to work in. ![]() Larger pelts will of course require larger proportions and bigger equipment. I've made the proportions sized to a small pelt like a rabbit or a couple of squirrels. Regardless of size, the steps are about the same. Tanning a hide is a pretty straight forward job. Wooden stick for stirring and pushing the peltsġ lb. Pelts make great additions to a trophy room, can be used as a trade good at rendezvous, and are handy for tying flies.There are tons of references on tanning small hides, so I have consolidated the simplest and safest process.Ī flat piece of wood about an inch or two bigger than the pelt you're working with.Ī sharp knife with curve to the blade, a dull knife with a curve to the blade.ġ pound of kosher type salt for each pelt the size of a rabbit or smaller This is a fun and safe project for you to try. ![]()
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